LAFAYETTE'S VISIT 
TO GERMANTOWN 



Two Hundred and Fifty Copies of this book 
have been printed from type 



No. U^^i*f/U^«-d^ /^ 




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LAFAYETTE'S 

VISIT TO 

GERMANTOWN 

July 20, 1825 
An Address delivered before 

The Pennsvlvania Genealogical Society 
March i, 1909 

The Pennsylvania Historical Society 
May 10, 1909 

The Site and Relic Society of Germantown 
May 20, 1910 

The City History Society of Philadelphia 
January ii, 1911 

By 

Charles Francis Jenkins 



PHILADELPHIA 

William J. Campbell 
191 1 






copyright, i 9 1 i , by 
Charles Francis Jenkins 



\.^' 



©CI. A 3 05 124 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



LAFAYETTE IN 1824-25 

From the painting by Thomas Sully in Independence 
Hall, Philadelphia. Photograph by F. Gutekunst 

Frontispiece '^ 

STUDY OF HEAD BY THOMAS SULLY 

Dated 1824. Painted during Lafayette's First Visit 
to Philadelphia. From the original owned by Herbert 
Welsh, of Germantown. Photographed by Charles 
R. Pancoast ----- Opposite page i i - 

LOUDOUN 

Northwest corner of Main and Apsley Streets, Ger- 
mantown. Built IN 1 80 1. The Germantown Escort 

AWAITED the ARRIVAL OF LaFAYETTE AT THIS POINT. FrOM 
a recent PHOTOGRAPH BY J. MiTCHELL ElLIOT 

Opposite page 13 "^ 

THE CHEW HOUSE 

Scene of an important engagement in the Battle of 
Germantown and the Reception to Lafayette in 1825. 
From a photograph, 1911, by J. Mitchell Elliot 

Opposite page i 7 -"' 

DOORWAY OF THE CHEW HOUSE 

From a photograph, 1911, by J. Mitchell Elliot 

Opposite page 191^ 

BENJAMIN CHEW, Jr. 

Son of the Chief Justice and host to Lafayette at the 
Breakfast at Cliveden in 182;. From a portrait in 
possession of Mr. Samuel Chew. Photograph, 191 i, 
BY J. Mitchell Elliot - - Opposite page 23 . 

MISS ANNE SOPHIA PENN CHEW 

Who assisted her father, Benjamin Chew, Jr., in re- 
ceiving Lafayette in 1825. From a portrait in posses- 
sion OF Mr. Samuel Chew, Cliveden. Photograph by 
J. Mitchell Elliot ... Opposite page 25 -^ 

THE RECEPTION AT THE CHEW HOUSE 

From the painting by E. L. Henry, about 1854. Photo- 
graph copyrighted, 1909, by C. S. Bradford 

Opposite page 29 <^ 



WYCK 

The home of Reuben Haines in 1825. Thought to be 

THE OLDEST HOUSE STANDING IN GeRMANTOWN. LoCATED 
AT THE SOUTHWEST CORNER OF GeRMANTOWN AvENUE AND 

Walnut Lane. FroM a recent photograph by J. 
Mitchell Elliot - - - Opposite page 33 '' 

PORTRAIT OF REUBEN HAINES 

From a painting by Rembrandt Peale, in possession of 
Miss Jane Haines, of Wyck, Germantown. Photo- 
graph BY Reuben Haines, of Germantown 

Opposite page 37 i' 

HALLWAY OF WYCK 

Through which the guests passed at the Reception to 
General Lafayette. From a recent photograph by J. 
Mitchell Elliot . . - Opposite page 39 

LAFAYETTE CHAIR 

Now IN possession of Reuben Haines, Haines and Chew 
Streets, Germantown. From a photograph by Reuben 
Haines ----- Opposite page 43 

LAFAYETTE BOX 

Presented to Lafayette by John F. Watson. Deposited 
IN the Museum of the Site and Relic Society, Vernon 
Park, Germantown. Loaned by Claude Treichler. 
From a photograph by J. Mitchell Elliot 

Opposite page 45 1/ 

THE GERMANTOWN ACADEMY 

Founded 1760. Where Lafayette was received by 
Teachers and Pupils, 1825. From a photograph, 191 i, 
BY J. Mitchell Elliot - - - Opposite page 49 



Acknowledgment 



THE main details of Lafayette's early life 
and Revolutionary services are from Hon. 
Charlemagne Tower's "The Marquis de 
La Fayette in the American Revolution," Philadel- 
phia, 1895. The incidents and dates of the tour of 
1824-5 ^'■^ taken from the official journal of the trip, 
"Lafayette en Amerique en 1824 et 1825 ou Journal 
D'Un Voyage aux Etats-Unis," par A. Levasseur, 
Paris, 1829, James Schouler's vivid and satisfying 
essay, "Lafayette's Tour in 1824," has also been an in- 
spiration. The details of the visit to Germantown are 
from M. Levasseur's account, as well as from a Phila- 
delphia daily paper, Poulsoii s American Daily Adver- 
tiser, of July 23 and July 26, 1825. In the latter 
issue the addresses are reported in full. 

I am also indebted to the Hon. Francisco J. 
Yanes, Secretary of the International Bureau of Amer- 
ican Republics at Washington, D. C, and to Senor 
Manuel Landeata Rosales, of Caracas, Venezuela, 
for information as to the early life of Fernando 
Bolivar; also to Geo. A. Barringer, Conservateur 
honorare de la Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris, France, 
for information as to the present-day location of 
relics of Lafayette. 

C. F. J. 




^.liCElssn J. C!:Bi>scon 



Kj^iicyoy^ K_z^ue,a!y7j/ y(i/ ,~Z^jMyueMei ^yLea:^^ 



Lafayette s Visit to Germantown 
in 182^ 

IN the same session of Congress which had 
been opened by that message from the 
President conveying to it, and to the 
world, the so-called Monroe Doctrine, there 
was passed, February 4, 1824, a resolution 
offering to the Marquis de Lafayette a ship of 
war to bring him to America to pay the visit 
he had long planned, and which this nation was 
then eagerly anticipating. Leaving his country 
home. La Grange, an estate of some eight hun- 
dred acres lying forty miles east of Paris, which 
through many vicissitudes had been his refuge, 
he set out on what was to be one of the most 
remarkable visits in the annals of the world, an 
event which Charles Sumner declared was one 
of the poems of history. And if this episode 
belongs to the poetry of history, the whole life 



12 LAFAYETTE'S VISIT 

and career of Lafayette constitute one of its 
most striking romances. 

Born of illustrious parents, a posthumous 
son, the death of his mother left him an orphan 
at an early age. Soon after the boyhood heir of 
a large fortune, married before he was seventeen 
to a young woman of one of the leading noble 
families of France, a father at eighteen, he be- 
came fired with zeal for the American cause at 
nineteen, on listening to a recital of the Col- 
onies' wrongs by one of the last persons you 
would expect — the Duke of Gloucester — 
brother of the English king. Shortly after this 
meeting, Lafayette visited his uncle, the French 
Ambassador in London, and was presented to 
George the Third himself. He had already 
offered his services to the American Commis- 
sioners in Paris, and on his return to France he 
hid himself from his wife and family, the latter 
being bitterly opposed to his course. Without 
a parting farewell to those he loved, he stole 
away from Paris, eluded the agents of the 
government, and after many vexatious delays 



TO GERMJNTOfFN 13 

sailed from a Spanish port for America in 
company" with Baron de Kalb. He presented 
himself, not yet twenty years of age, with the 
commission of a Major-general in the American 
army, given him by Franklin and Deane, to 
the astonished Continental Congress, then sit- 
ting in Philadelphia. 

Such is the brief record of Lafayette's 
entry upon the American horizon, and romantic 
as it is, it is but a fitting prelude to nearly 
threescore more years, equally fraught with 
experiences and adventures such as have come 
to but few men. 

Soon established in intimate daily com- 
panionship with Washington, he became through 
his military skill a Major-general in reality. 
Wounded at Brandvwine, nursed to health at 
Bethlehem, sharing the discomforts of Valley 
Forge, a successful tactician at Barren Hill and 
at Monmouth, given an independent com- 
mand in Rhode Island, he everywhere met the 
confidence reposed in his ability and good 
judgment. 



14 LAFAYETTE'S VISIT 

Sailing for France early in 1779, in the 
new frigate Alliance, he assisted in securing 
the substantial French reinforcements under 
Rochambeau. Returning to America in the 
spring of 1780, he was later given command 
in the notable Virginia campaign, which ended 
with the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown. 
The activities of the armies over, he returned 
to France, again sailing in the Alliance, and 
assisted the American Commissioners in the 
tortuous steps which led to the treaty of peace. 
In 1784, he came to America on his third visit, 
was for a time the guest of Washington, his 
mentor and friend, at Mt. Vernon, and the 
recipient of many honors and attentions from 
the American people. 

In the French Revolution, the rise and 
fall of Napoleon, and the other great events 
which stirred Europe for four decades, he bore 
a conspicuous part, and was one of the very 
few — an able historian has said, "perhaps the 
only. Revolutionary leader of France whose 
record left nothing to blush for." His exile 



TO GERMANTOWN 15 

from his native land, his political imprisonment 
by the Austrians, shared in part by his devoted 
wife and daughters, in the noisome dungeons 
of Olmiitz, the loss of his fortune, — all these 
were well known to his sympathetic American 
friends. They had seen him standing as a 
bulwark of political liberty and human rights 
as exemplified in the cause of American Inde- 
pendence, and the forty years of separation, 
during which his star had risen and sunk re- 
peatedly, but increased the esteem and affection 
which they bore him, and intensified their de- 
sire to welcome him. 

Lafayette declined the offer of President 
Monroe and of Congress for passage in a public 
ship, and set sail in a merchant packet, the 
Cadmus, from Havre, July 13, 1824, and, after 
a pleasant voyage of thirty-two days, reached 
the harbor of New York on Sunday, the 15th 
of August. The official landing was made on 
August 1 6th at the Battery. Here began a 
tour without parallel in our history. It lasted 
in all some fourteen months. "The Nation's 



1 6 LAFAYETTE S VISIT 

Guest," as he was called, traversed every state 
and section of the country. From New York 
he proceeded through Connecticut to Bos- 
ton, thence to Portsmouth, N. H. Return- 
ing to New York, he steamed up the Hudson 
to Albany. Retracing his steps, he passed 
through New Jersey to Philadelphia, Baltimore 
and Washington, where he was received by 
Congress with great distinction and given 
$200,000.00 in money and a township of land 
in recognition of his Revolutionary service. An 
extensive tour in Virginia and then on to 
Raleigh, Charleston, Savannah, Mobile and 
New Orleans. By this time it was April, 
1825, when he ascended the Mississippi to St. 
Louis; thence to Nashville, Cincinnati, Pitts- 
burgh, along Lake Erie to Niagara Falls; to 
Syracuse, Albany, Boston, and as far east as 
Portland, Me. He returned to New York in 
time for the great celebration of July 4, 1825. 
Then to Philadelphia and again to Washington. 
Everywhere there were receptions, dinners, 
balls, arches, school children drawn up along 



TO GERMANTOfFN 17 

the roads, while frequently whole communities 
waited from dawn to sunset for the belated 
guest. There were presentations, parades, 
salutes and speeches, over and over. It seemed 
impossible for the various communities to give 
expression to their affection and overflowing 
good will; and the most wonderful part of it is 
that an elderly gentleman who celebrated his 
sixty-seventh and sixty-eighth birthdays during 
the tour could stand the terrific strain. But 
Lafayette's health, buoyed by his unfailing 
courtesy and good-nature, and his apparently 
sincere enjoyment of the attentions shown him, 
actually improved as the journey progressed, 
and the whole trip was accomplished without 
greater disaster than the wrecking of his steam- 
boat on the Mississippi River through running 
on a snag, and from this accident the party was 
rescued from the sinking boat without much 
difficulty. 

It should be recalled that Lafayette was 
the sole survivor of Washington's generals. At 
almost every centre some soldier of the Revolu- 



1 8 LAFAYETTE S VISIT 

tion would present himself, or be pushed for- 
ward by his friends, as a companion in arms. 
Many of them had served under Lafayette in 
his favorite light infantry; — here the pilot who 
had brought him into port, or the officer to 
whom he had given a sword, or the companion 
of the cold and suffering of Valley Forge, 
would be recognized by Lafayette and as often 
called by name. He was indeed a link joining 
the America of 3,000,000 souls of the strug- 
gling Colonies to the Union of twenty-four states 
and 10,000,000 prosperous people. Every- 
where he went the leading men of the country 
sought him out and welcomed him. In Boston, 
on his second visit, Daniel Webster, the orator 
of the laying of the corner-stone of the Bunker 
Hill Monument on the 50th Anniversary of the 
Battle, addressed him with all the warmth of 
his affectionate rhetoric. In the halls of Con- 
gress Henry Clay, speaker of the House, 
conveyed the nation's respect and admiration. 
In New England he met and renewed his early 
friendship with the venerable ex-President, 



■ ^=n^ 


■ 


^ ■ ■ 






m : 






A W /Lis on a Cc.BosTan 



■=:U^yCh 



TO GERMANTOWN 19 

John Adams; and at Monticello he did what 
has fallen to the lot of but few men — dined 
with three ex-Presidents, Jefferson, Madison 
and Monroe. James Monroe, as President, 
welcomed him in the White House, and again 
President John Quincy Adams received him 
there on the return from his tour. 

In 1824, Lafayette presented a fine portly 
figure, nearly six feet high, his sixty-seven years 
lightly worn, his only apparent infirmity being 
a slight limp, popularly attributed to his wound 
at Brandy wine, but in reality caused by a broken 
hip, the result of a fall on the ice in 1803. 
His face is said to have been without a wrinkle, 
and he wore a dark-red wig, set low on his 
forehead, which stood in good stead to one 
who was constantly bowing with uncovered 
head. It is related that the Seneca chief. Red 
Jacket, who had met and known Lafayette in 
the early days, frankly expressed his amazement 
that the passing years should have left the Gen- 
eral such a fresh countenance and a hairy scalp. 
Lafayette was accompanied in his triumphal 



20 LAFATETTE'S VISIT 

tour by his only son, George Washington La- 
fayette, then a mature man of forty-five, him- 
self not without distinction, and later a senator 
of France. The third member of the party 
was Auguste Levasseur, the secretary and histo- 
rian of the trip. They were accompanied by 
one servant. 

It was on the occasion of Lafayette's sec- 
ond visit to Philadelphia, in July, 1825, that 
arrangements were made for him to be wel- 
comed in Germantown, By this time he had 
nearly completed his tour and his face was 
homeward turned. It had been ten months 
since his first visit to Philadelphia, in Septem- 
ber, 1 8 24, when it would seem that the excess 
of welcome and good will had exhausted the 
city ; but, while less demonstratively, his second 
visit was no less cordially received and appreci- 
ated. Again there was the round of receptions 
and many other social events. He had arrived 
at Philadelphia on Saturday, July i6th, and his 
stay at this time covered a period of nine days, 
about six hours of which were devoted to vis- 



TO GERMANTOWN i\ 

iting Germantown. I am going to give in 
some detail the principal events of the day in 
Germantown — a day that I do not imagine w^as 
filled with more than the ordinary sight-seeing 
and hand-shaking, speech-making and eating; 
and when this is multiplied by four hundred, 
the number of working days Lafayette spent in 
America, you can appreciate the prodigious ex- 
ertion of himself and his companions. 

The weather had been extremely warm,* 
a period such as we know in Philadelphia about 
the middle of July, and M. Levasseur records 
temperature of more than a hundred for several 
successive days, and one day with 104 degrees. 
But the intense heat did not daunt Lafayette, 
and not a single detail of the visit was altered 

*" Besides the accounts which we have daily received of the 
fatal effects of heat on men, on horses and on fish, we yesterday 
learned that even some of the feathered tribe have become its victims. 
The swallows which inhabit the large ship house at the Navy Yard, 
are daily dropping down dead among the workmen below. This 
curious and uncommon incident, induced one of the Officers to ascer- 
tain the temperature by means of a Thermometer. 

" In the Commandant's Office, 98 degrees. 

"In the ship house near the roof, 106 degrees." 
From Poulson'i American Daily Advertiser, July z^, 1825. 



22 LAFAYETTES VISIT 

on account of it. The visit to Germantown 
was made on Wednesday, July 20th. There 
had been a big dinner on the i6th, a concert 
on the 1 8 th, and a visit to the then compara- 
tively new and famous Fairmount waterworks 
on the 19th. 

We have living in Germantown to-day 
Joseph Murtcr,* or "Uncle Joe," for many 
years our only policeman, now well on to 
ninety-five, who, as a boy of ten, remembers 
well the reception to Lafayette, in which he 
was an interested and active participant. Like 
many old people, the events of his youth stand 
out with vividness, while later events are lost in 
memory's recesses. There is little in his recol- 
lections not substantiated by contemporary ac- 
counts; yet the description of an eye-witness 
adds color and interest to any important event. 
Lafayette set out from the city at an early hour, 
accompanied by his suite and a committee of 

* Since the above was written Joseph Murter has passed away. 
He was born May 5, 1815, and was a resident of Germantown all 
his life. He died January 14, 1 9 1 1 . 



TO GERMANTOWN 23 

Councils, and reached the bottom of Neglee's 
Hill, where is now Wayne Junction, between 
eight-thirty and nine o'clock. Captain Heilig's 
company of artillery had been stationed on the 
lawn in front of Loudoun, which was given its 
name because Thomas Armat, a famous merchant 
in his day, whose early home it was, had first set- 
tled in Loudoun County, Virginia. A colored 
bugler named Johnson, said to have been one of 
the best buglers in the country, having been 
stationed to announce the coming of the dis- 
tinguished guests, a salute of cannon was fired. 
Drawn up to meet him at the hill were a com- 
pany of Germantown Cavalry; the Germantown 
Blues, a famous infantry company modeled after 
the McPherson Blues of Philadelphia; mem- 
bers of Hiram Lodge of Masons; a body of 
manufacturers, and numerous benevolent soci- 
eties. The cavalry headed the procession, "fol- 
lowed," the chronicle of the day states, "very 
properly by his (Lafayette's) brethren of the 
Freemasons"; and thus escorted, the General, 
riding in an open barouche drawn by four 



24 LAFAYETTES VISIT 

horses (which Joseph Murter says were grays), 
proceeded up our old Main Street, or German- 
town Road, by this time a well-kept turnpike. 
Our records do not say whether the old toll- 
gate, which stood for so many years and within 
the memory of the present generation, at Rit- 
tenhouse and Main Streets, was thrown open 
to the public this day or not, but this had been 
the custom all over the country. Nowhere 
would the people allow "The Nation's Guest" 
to put his hand in his pocket. Bridges, ferries, 
turnpikes — all were hospitably opened when he 
came. At the first gate outside of New York, 
on his way to Boston, the General had observed 
two men in a carriage ahead stop and pay toll. 
As his own carriage pulled up, the gate-keeper 
came to the door, waved his hand, and said: 
" Go ahead, the road is free ; General Lafayette 
travels this road to-day and no man pays 
toll." I should have qualified the statement 
that all gates were free, for once while 
riding with President John Quincy Adams 
on a visit to Oak Hill, the seat of ex-President 




■UJ-^ -._j<0?i/n£^ (L)//te4i^' 



TO GERMANTOWN 25 

Monroe, the party was forced to pay, the only 
instance in the trip, an incident Secretary 
Levasseur considers all the more remarkable 
when the chief magistrate of the country was 
escorting them. 

It is two miles up and down the hills of 
the Main Street from the lower entrance of the 
town to Cliveden, the Chew house, where the 
breakfast was to be given. The committee had 
originally planned to have the function at the 
Green Tree Tavern, one of the famous hostel- 
ries of the early days, but they later decided 
that the Green Tree did not afford sufficient 
accommodations, and at the last moment the 
plans were changed and the Chew house se- 
lected for the function. As they approached 
the mansion the escort, which had preceded 
the General, halted along the road, and Lafay- 
ette and his party passed through them and 
entered the house. The members of the Ma- 
sonic Lodge and then the various members of 
the military bodies were introduced to Lafayette 
individually, as well as a vast number of the in- 



0.6 LAFATETTE'S VISIT 

habitants of the town — as the ancient chronicle 
states it, both "males and females." 

M. Levasseur records in his journal the 
battle-scars on the house — the traces of the can- 
^ non and musket balls which had so sadly disfig- 
ured its walls, and which to-day are living relics 
of one of the best-remembered engagements of 
the Revolution. On this festive day the house 
and grounds were hospitably thrown open to 
the public, as they have been so many times 
since, and the citizens of Germantown generally 
availed themselves of the opportunity of in- 
specting the battle-scarred walls and the historic 
interior. The Benjamin Chew* of the day was 
the son of the Chief Justice. His household 
was presided over by his young daughter. Miss 
Anne Sophia Penn Chew, who continued to 
live at Cliveden for many years. We are for- 
tunate in having a contemporary letter from 
one who was present at the "breakfast." 
Among the archives of Upsala, the beautiful 

*This was Benjamin Chew, Jr., born in Philadelphia, 1758. 
Died at Cliveden, April 30, 1844. 



TO GERMANTOWN 27 

Johnson home, opposite the Chew house, there 
was a letter written by Miss Ann Johnson, July 
14 of 1825, to her mother, who was then at 
Saratoga Springs. Her account of the recep- 
tion is as follows: 

" Last 4th day morn I had the honour of break- 
fasting with LaFayette at Mr. Chews. I wish you 
had been here — the house both up and down stairs 
was crowded with men, women and soldiers — and 
around the house. Mrs. and two of the Mifs. Mor- 
ris's and myself were the only invited ladies that sat 
down to Breakfast — about 16 sat down at first, and 
when they had finished others took their place, and 
so on till I believe nearly all the soldiers had break- 
fast — those that did not come in had something in 
the kitchen. I heard that they eat everything they 
had till at last the cook had to lock the doors. 

" I was introduced to LaFayette twice and shook 
hands with him three times. Ann Chew regretted M 
was not there to enjoy the scene — it was quite delight- 
ful to see anything so animated in G . There was 

so much noise that I could not hear a word the Gen- 
eral said, every person seemed so anxious to see him 
eat, that a centinal had to keep guard at the door 
with a drawn sword — it was very fine indeed. When 



2 8 LAFAYETTE'S VISIT 

he departed the shouts of the multitude and the roar- 
ing of the cannon was almost deafening. A. L. Logan 
said I could give you a very fine description of it — 
but I told him I would have to leave it to your imagi- 
nation, it would be impossible for me to describe 
everything." 

The original of this letter has been depos- 
ited by Miss Sally W. Johnson in the Museum 
of the Site and Relic Society in Vernon Park, 
Germantown. 

The breakfast over, the General's party, 
accompanied by the Germantown Cavalry, pro- 
ceeded up the Main Street to the institution 
called Mt. Airy College, which occupied the 
site of Chief Justice William Allen's country 
place, also called Mt. Airy. The Chief Justice 
had built the house shortly after 1750, and it 
had been a famous country home in its day. 
The square building of stone was the original 
house, the other buildings having been added 
for school purposes. Here, after some changes 
of ownership, had been established, in 1807, 
a Catholic school, and it later became, in 18 15, 



TO GERMANTOWN 19 

the American Classical and Military Institute,* 
under the management of Benjamin C. Con- 
stant and Major August L. Roumfort. Among 
the later distinguished pupils of the school were 
General P. G. T. Beauregard, General George 
G. Meade and Admiral Du Pont. The old 
buildings made way some twenty years after 
Lafayette's visit for the more convenient country 
home of James Gowen, and this property was 
later sold to the Lutheran Theological Semi- 
nary, which now occupies the site. No details 
of the stop at the school are available, but the 
visit must have been a short and hurried one. 
It is preserved that Lafayette " expressed the 
highest gratification with the school and its 
management." 

From Mt. Airy the party continued on 
to Chestnut Hill for the purpose of obtaining 
a view of Barren Hill, where, on the 20th of 
May, 1778, Lafayette had happily accomplished 

*An illustration of the American Classical and Military Institute 
will be found in the Rev. S. F. Hotchkin's "Ancient and Modern 
Germantown, Mount Airy and Chestnut Hill," Philadelphia, 1889. 



30 LAFATETTES VISIT 

that famous retreat which was the beginning of 
his reputation as a tactician. The time was too 
short to admit of riding the two miles more 
and two miles back, down one big hill and up 
another, which a visit to Barren Hill itself 
would have entailed, and the party satisfied 
themselves with the distant view. In 1778, La- 
fayette with some two thousand troops had been 
dispatched from Valley Forge toward Philadel- 
phia to "feel" the enemy, then quartered in 
the city. The news of the French alliance had 
but lately reached America, and both armies 
realized that the British must leave Philadel- 
phia. The young General crossed the Schuyl- 
kill at Swedesford — now Norristown — marched 
down the Ridge Road and took station on the 
high ground at Barren Hill. Here roads led 
directly to the city through Roxborough, and 
one nearly as direct through Chestnut Hill and 
Germantown. General Clinton, whom Lafay- 
ette had last seen at the theatre in London, had 
arrived to take command of the British army, 
and in honor of the retiring general, Howe, 



TO GERMANTOWN 31 

and of the newcomer, that remarkable fete, the 
Mischianza, was being held at the same time 
that Lafayette was leaving the dreary winter's 
camp at Valley Forge. General Clinton, learn- 
ing of the presence of this small detached force 
within eleven miles of the city, resolved to cap- 
ture it, and almost successful plans were imme- 
diately put under way. Three main bodies of 
troops left Philadelphia on the morning of May 
20th, and soon reports from all sides convinced 
Lafayette that he was surrounded except on the 
side toward the Schuylkill. General Grant 
with eight thousand troops was on his rear, Gen- 
erals Clinton and Howe with Admiral Howe as 
a spectator were in front. His left flank was 
threatened by grenadiers and cavalry under Gen- 
eral Gray. General Grant was nearer to Mat- 
son's Ford, the only available crossing, than was 
Lafayette's force; but through delays and mis- 
understandings on the part of the British, and 
the acuteness and ability of the young French 
General, the American force stole away, crossed 
the river at Matson's Ford and drew up on the 



32 LAFAYETTE S VISIT 

heights opposite what is now Conshohocken, 
before the British army could come up with 
them. 

Among the buildings at Barren Hill is a 
quaint old tavern, the eaves of which for more 
than a hundred years have been occupied by 
families of martins. They were there when 
the confusion of troops and the rattle of mus- 
ketry surrounded the inn on those days of middle 
May, 1778, and they have been there every sum- 
mer since up to two years ago, when for the first 
time within the memories of four generations 
they did not come. They have resisted vali- 
antly the attacks of the English sparrow against 
overwhelming odds, but have apparently de- 
parted at last, just one hundred and thirty years 
after some six English regulars to every Ameri- 
can soldier made the latter quickstep down the 
cross-roads and through the Schuylkill waters. 

One of the stories always told in connec- 
tion with Lafayette's retreat from Barren Hill 
relates to the Indian scouts, some fifty in 
number, which were part of his force. A 



TO GERMANTOWN ZZ 

company of British dragoons suddenly came 
upon them, when the savages gave their w^ar- 
whoop, which so terrified the dragoons that 
they fled in dismay. The savages on their part, 
who had never seen red coats on horseback, fled 
in terror, and did not stop till they had swam 
the Schuylkill and were safe beyond. 

The Lafayette party, after viewing Barren 
Hill, returned to Germantown, reaching 
Wyck, the residence of Reuben Haines* at 
one o'clock. Here a reception to the towns- 
people had been planned and elaborate exer- 
cises took place. Wyck is one of our oldest 
homes in Germantown. It is thought to have 
been built in 1709, and originally it was two 
houses with an open space between ; but this 
had been built over, forming one continuous 
front. The halls of the house had been used 
as operating room and hospital after the battle, 
and blood-stains still remain upon the floors. 

* Reuben Haines, who lived at Wyck, was a leading citizen 
of Germantown. He was Secretary of the Academy of Natural 
Sciences. He was born February 8, 1786. Died October 19, 1831. 



34 LAFAYETTE'S VISIT 

Among the trees about the house is a Spanish 
chestnut, a seedling from a tree which Wash- 
ington had planted for Judge Peters on the 
lawn at Belmont. The house is one of con- 
tinual delight to everyone fond of the old days 
and ways. It is not provided with either gas 
or electric light, candles and lamps being all 
that are used, in keeping with its low ceilings 
and furniture of the olden time. The house 
stands in the midst of the noise and bustle of 
our Main Street, a quiet and peaceful memo- 
rial of the past. It was here, the chronicle 
continues, Lafayette stopped for an hour, "where 
he again received visits" (and I am now quot- 
ing) "from ladies and gentlemen of respectabil- 
ity." The presentation of the townspeople was 
made by Charles J. Wister, for many years one 
of the best-known and active citizens of the 
town. He was the brother of Sally Wister, 
the diarist, and not without local distinction as 
a writer and poet. It was in his father's house 
that the British general, James Agnew, had 
made his headquarters, and had later died. 



TO GERMANTOWN ZS 

leaving the indelible blood-stains on the par- 
lor floor. 

The formal program begun, an appropri- 
ate address was made by Charles Pierce, Esq., 
Chairman of a committee from the Germantown 
lodge of Masons. This over, a relic of more 
than ordinary interest was presented to Lafay- 
ette through Reuben Haines, the host. The 
relic, in the shape of a small, round, wooden 
box, had been made either by or under the 
supervision of John F. Watson, then a com- 
paratively young man, the cashier of our Ger- 
mantown Bank, as he was for more than 
twenty-three years after. He was at this time 
gathering material for his "Annals," which 
were not published, however, until six years 
after Lafayette's visit. Apparently, Watson had 
two boxes made exactly alike, retaining one for 
himself; and this through the process of time 
has descended to our Site and Relic Society of 
Germantown, and is now part of the museum 
of relics. On the under side of the box was 
this inscription: "Relics of the olden time. 



36 LAFAYETTE'S VISIT 

Gift of J. F. Watson, member of the Society of 
Penn, to General Lafayette, when he was- in 
Germantown, 20th July, 1825." The letter 
is dated from the old banking-house where 
Watson lived and wrote his " Annals," still 
standing, but now a meat shop. The letter is 

as follows: 

Germantown (Bank House) 
Sir: J"^y 2°' ^8^5- 

The frank politeness with which you have so 
often received the tokens of friendship from my 
countrymen, encourages me also, upon a slender ac- 
quaintance, to approach you with the present of a 
small Wooden Box, of Materials consecrated to the 
memory of some of the earliest historical incidents of 
my country. I am the more inclined to this, from 
having the honour to approach you as a brother 
Miquon, we being members of the Penn Society, for 
commemorating the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers of 
Pennsylvania. As these and similar relicks are pecu- 
liarly such as the Society encourages and preserves, I 
presume they may not meet an unwelcome reception 
from you. 

The love of relicks, connected with incidents on 
which the soul delights to dwell, is a passion natural 




A.WI Elscr, d C^lBcstotz 



K^/LeaSe^/t ^^jyLa&i 



TO GERMANTOWN 37 

to man and especially to those of the finest moral 
feelings ; and the reason is obvious : by such associa- 
tions, such constituted minds, are capable of generat- 
ing the ideal -presence, and to commune with men and 
things of other times. (So long as fancy and imagi- 
nation shall find their proper place in feeling and en- 
lightened minds, we shall expect to hear of the 
"Touch Wood Trunk," of the Bard of Avon; of 
Rabelais' Old Clock, at Montpelier; or of Thomson's 
Table at Richmond.) 

You yourself have already manifested your aflTec- 
tion for Dr. Franklin's Cane, and for Gen. Wash- 
ington's hair. 

" We beg a hair of him for memory 
And dying, mention it within our wills." 

The character of the several pieces of Wood in- 
corporated in the Box, is as follows, to wit, — The Box 
is turned from a piece of Black Walnut, which till 
1 8 1 8 was a living Forest Tree, standing in front ot 
the Hall of Independence, and had been, with other 
like Trees there, the contemporaries of William Penn 
and the first settlers of Pennsylvania. That Group 
formerly served as imposing and appropriate con- 
ductors to that venerable building, when standing as 
it formerly did, at the utmost verge of City Popula- 
tion. When Richard Penn visited Philadelphia, and 



38 LAFAYETTE S VISIT 

was shown these last living vestiges of his great Pro- 
genitor's day, he burst into a flood of tears. The 
interest to be afforded by this Wood now is, that it is 
the last of all the Forest Race, so near the City. The 
four sections of the circle on the Lid are as follows, 
to wit: — 

The Oak is a piece of the top log of a butment wharf 
(now strange to tell) located at the Junction of Hud- 
son's Alley and Chestnut Street, in the year 1683, 
and then appertaining to the first Bridge ever made 
over Dock Creek. Under this Bridge, replaced by a 
stone one in 1699, vessels loaded with wood, used to 
go up to the "common landing" at the junction of 
High and Fourth streets. The present piece of 
wood was found six feet under the present surface 
in 1823. 

The Sweet Gum is another Tree of the Forest 
Race of Penn's day, and the last present living Trees 
so near the City (save an Elm still standing at the N. 
W. corner of Schuylkill Seventh and Race Streets) it 
being one of 3 or 4 now standing on the northern 
side of Vine Street, in front of Bush Hill. Such 
facts as these tend powerfully to impose upon our 
consideration the wonderfully rapid growth of our 
American Cities from the Rude Sylvan, to the embel- 
lished City State. 




A. h^^son d Cb, Boston 



%& 



oyu- ^a/t ^/"/y/i 



TO GERMANTOtVN 29 

The Elm is of the celebrated " Treaty Tree" of 
Shackamaxum, which blew down in 1810, and a Scion 
of which is again flourishing (like the reproduction of 
the fabled Phoenix) in the western lot of the City 
Hospital. 

The Mahogany is a piece of the Beam of the first 
house constructed by Europeans in America! It was 
built and occupied in 1496 by the great Columbus, 
and is still preserved with commendable care by the 
Haytien Government. 

With the present, accept also my lasting respect 

and esteem. 

John F. Watson. 

P. S. I feel disposed also to present you the 
last vestige of the first American Navy. It is a piece 
of the Timber of the Alliance, frigate. It is associated 
with that happy Alliance for which you so earnestly 
laboured, and it is besides curious as having belonged 
to the only Frigate of the first Navy, which remained 
to us at the close of the Revolution. It has, how- 
ever, been as the seed or parent of something now 
far much greater and renowned. 

It will be remembered that Lafayette had 
twice crossed the Atlantic in this frigate, so the 
gift of this relic was particularly appropriate. 



40 LAFATETTES VISIT 

The Alliance had had an eminently successful 
career during the war, and at its conclusion had 
been sold to Robert Morris and used as a mer- 
chant vessel, making several memorable trips. 
A few years later the frigate had been sold and 
broken up and her remains run upon Petty's 
Island in the Delaware. 

General Lafayette was highly flattered, his 
secretary says, by Mr. Watson's present. He 
received it with gratitude and with a pledge 
that it should find a place among the precious 
memorials of his tour. The box was for many 
years a treasured relic at La Grange, and it is 
illustrated in the " Souvenirs sur la Vie Privee du 
General Lafayette" by his friend and surgeon, 
M. Jules Cloquet, published in Paris, 1836. 
Shortly after Lafayette's death, in 1834, the 
souvenirs were divided among his three children, 
and in each one of these three branches several 
times in succession among the various heirs. 

Just where these interesting ceremonies 
occurred can only be conjectured, but it is known 
that the reception took place in the passageway 



TO GERMANTOWN 41 

through the centre of the house. There is a 
tradition that the General, fatigued by the 
labors of the day, was seated during a portion 
of the reception in an arm chair, still carefully 
preserved in the Haines family. The tradition 
is that it was one of two chairs which Franklin 
brought with him on his return from his service 
abroad as Minister of the United States to 
France. The chairs passed into the possession 
of Miss Molly Donaldson, of Germantown, and 
on her death she bequeathed one to Reuben 
Haines and the other to Charles J. Wister. The 
chair was placed on the right side of the pas- 
sageway, nearest the street, and the guests filed 
through into the garden at the rear. Here " the 
guests were embraced by the General," as the 
account states, "with his usual politeness and 
cordiality." 

The reception at Wyck concluded, La- 
fayette, seated in his barouche, accompanied by 
Charles J. Wister and surrounded by the cavalry 
escort, moved down the Main Street to yet one 
more function — a visit to the Academy on 



42 LAFAYETTE'S VISIT 

School House Lane. Our Germantown Acad- 
emy celebrated its one hundred and fiftieth 
anniversary in 1910, and when Lafayette vis- 
ited it, it had been for tw^o-thirds of a century 
an object of interest and solicitude to the incor- 
porators and their descendants. The turmoil of 
the Revolution sadly interfered with the orderly 
and continuous conduct of the school. Here, 
as at Wyck, the floors were stained by the 
blood of the wounded after the battle. It was 
offered in 1793 as a meeting place for Congress, 
and later was occupied by two of the big city 
banks during the yellow fever visitation. We 
like to say that its old weathervane is sur- 
mounted by the crown of George HL, and that 
its bell, which still calls the schoolboy to his 
studies, was sent home to England in the tea 
ship Polly, when this vessel was refused a 
landing in Philadelphia by our indignant citi- 
zens, and at the time when the Boston patriots, 
with no more earnestness, but with far more 
wastefulness, were pouring the tea consigned to 
them into the harbor. 




J^a/oAJAite- 



& ii^/riayiAy 



TO GERMANTOJVN 43 

Arriving at the school, the instructors, with 
Walter R. Johnson,* the principal, at their head, 
and the pupils were drawn up to receive the 
distinguished visitors. Mr. Johnson then de- 
livered the following address, which in the main 
was like hundreds — yes, almost a thousand — 
oratorical efforts to which Lafayette had listened 
(in his tour), but which, as it is short and con- 
tains some local references, is given in full. It 
was received with that urbanity and courtesy 
which everywhere marked the General's visit 
to Germantown. 

Mr. Johnson said: 
General : 

In behalf of the members of the Academy of 
Germantown, permit me to express the high satisfac- 
tion inspired in our hearts by the visit with which we 
are now favoured. The thrill of joy which ran through 
ten millions of bosoms, as the glad tidings of your 

* Walter R. Johnson was a young man, born in Massachusetts, 
June 21, 1795, a graduate of Harvard. He had assumed charge of 
the Academy in l8zi, two years after his graduation, and continued 
at its head until August, t8z6. From 1826 to 1836 he was con- 
nected with the Philadelphia schools and later was identified with 
many educational and scientific projects. He was the first sec- 



44 LAFAYETTES VISIT 

approach to our shores were announced, was not slow 
in finding its way to the ardent affections of the youth 
now before you. High therefore as the sentiments 
of gratitude have risen, and devoted as has been the 
attachment expressed in every part of our country, 
you will do me the justice to believe that of the count- 
less multitudes who have crowded around to do hom- 
age to the sublime virtues exhibited in your life, none 
have felt a deeper interest in the welfare, and none a 
livelier gratitude for the services of their country's 
benefactor than the citizens of this town and the mem- 
bers of this institution. You behold, sir, in the group 
before you, some of the youth of both portions of our 
continent, ardently devoted to those pursuits which 
may one day qualify them for discharging the high 
responsibilities imposed by their relation to free gov- 
ernment, and by the gratitude to those who have 
made them/r^^. While they ascend the steps of sci- 
ence or tread the paths of literature they are invigor- 
ated in the career, not only by the dignity of the 
pursuit, but also by the recollections of the names of. 

retary of the American Association for the Advancement of Science. 
He was a prolific writer, having left no less than fifty papers and re- 
ports on scientific subjects and twenty or more on matters relating to 
education. He died in Washington, D. C, April 26, 1852. A 
sketch of his life has been published in pamphlet form, being a reprint 
from "Barnard's American Journal of Education" for December, 1858. 




■=^4a.ue/te .^,oio 



TO GERMANTOWN 45 

those worthies who gave them the inheritance of in- 
stitutions founded on intelligence and virtue. 

We claim to possess a peculiar felicity in having 
our lot cast on the classic ground of America, amidst 
scenes which daily and hourly recall to mind recollec- 
tions as dear to our hearts as they are sacred to patri- 
otism. We visit the mansion that became the 
temporary refuge of our hostile invaders, and witness 
the impressions made by the cannon of our country- 
men ; we view with mingled emotions the indelible 
stains left by the blood of Revolutionary martyrs 
around many of the domestic hearthstones in our 
village, and in the retentive materials that compose 
this our hall of instruction. In our summer walks 
we strew flowers on the hallowed sod that covers the 
patriot soldier's grave ; by our winter firesides we 
listen to the legend of many a patriarch, whose eye 
pours forth that eloquence of feeling which his tongue 
refuses to utter — choked by the emotion that swells 
as it recounts the praises of our country's deliverers. 
Hence, then, in turning over the page of Grecian 
and Roman story, our youth seldom grow weary with 
dwelling on the deeds of ancient heroes, save when 
they pause amidst these objects that remind them of 
our great national struggle, to compare those heroes 
with the liberators of our own hemisphere ; with the 



46 LAFAYETTES VISIT 

Washingtons and Lafayettes of both Americas. Ac- 
cept, in our sincere congratulations, our earnest 
prayers for your safe return to the bosom of your 
family, and our ardent wishes for your lasting welfare 
and happiness. 

To this address the General made a feeHng 
and appropriate answer, and the students were 
then personally introduced by Mr. Johnson. 
The General gave each a cordial hand-shake, 
and when the name of Fernando Bolivar* was 
pronounced, Lafayette's expression kindled with 
interest and enthusiasm. This young man was 
the nephew and adopted son of Simon Bolivar, 
the so-called "Liberator" of South America, 
then in the zenith of his fame. The chron- 
icler of the event says that it was difficult to 

*Fernando Bolivar states in his autobiography, "Recuerdos y 
Reminiscencias del Primer Tercio de la Vida de Rivolba" (Bolivar) 
Paris, 1873. When he was twelve years old, in 1822, he was sent 
"to Philadelphia and I entered the College of Germantown under 
Walter Johnson, a man of remarkable qualifications to direct a col- 
lege. I have always cherished a pleasant memory and respectful re- 
membrance of my first teacher." He also states that when he arrived 
in Philadelphia he lived with a Mr. Alderson, and he further states 
that when General Lafayette was in the United States in l8z; and 
visited Germantown College he was introduced to the General. 



TO GERMANTOJVN 47 

say whether the vivid emotion of the hoary vet- 
eran or the filial respect and affection of the 
ingenuous youth was the most remarkable. La- 
fayette spoke to him with pleasure of the hopes 
which the friends of liberty and humanity were 
reposing in the character of his uncle, who 
until the present moment had advanced with a 
firm pace in the career pursued by Washington. 
To this the young man replied in such a man- 
ner as to excite the hope that his having been 
sent to the United States to study her political 
institution would not be without permanent 
benefit. 

After partaking of refreshments at the 
Academy, the General and his suite continued 
on out to the Ridge Road, and returned to the 

While at the Germantown Academy he had an oiFer to go to West 
Point, which offer he did not accept, as he acknowledged his defi- 
ciency in mathematics. From Germantown he went to a college in 
Virginia. Don Fernando S. Bolivar was born in Caracas, December 
9, 1808, being the son of Don Juan Vicente Bolivar, a brother of the 
• ' Liberator. ' ' Fernando Bolivar returned to South America in 1828, and 
during a long life was identified with the political and military move- 
ments of his native land, serving as deputy to Congress, and as gov- 
ernor of the province of Caracas. He died in Caracas, 1898. 



48 LAFAYETTE'S VISIT 

city to attend the dinner to Richard Rush, for 
eight years envoy to Great Britain. 

On the 25th of July Lafayette set out for 
Wilmington, and M. Levasseur, in looking back 
over the nine days in Philadelphia, thus re- 
fers to it : " The week we had just spent in 
Philadelphia, as it were in his own family, had 
entirely composed the fatigue of the General, 
and although the heat continued excessive, we 
undertook our journey to Wilmington to visit 
the Battle-field of Brandywine." This accom- 
plished, the party moved on to Washington, and 
were received by President Adams, who then 
occupied the White House. After a tour of 
Virginia and farewell dinner with the three ex- 
Presidents — Jefferson, Madison and Monroe — 
at Monticello, he was tendered a great public 
dinner in Washington on September 6th, his 
birthday. Lafayette started the next day for 
France, embarking on the frigate Brandywine, 
which had been newly launched. Sailing down 
the Potomac, they entered the Chesapeake under 
full sail, as a beautiful rainbow spanned the bay 




^ 



I 

'is 



TO GERMANTOWN 49 

with one arm seeming to rest on the Virginia 
coast and the other on the Maryland shore. 
Thus was repeated a phenomenon which had 
greeted Lafayette on his arrival in the harbor 
of New York, and which has been noted as a 
happy omen of his visit. 

After a voyage not without some diffi- 
culties, Lafayette reached France in twenty-four 
days and was soon at his beloved La Grange. 
Here for nine years he lived the peaceful, happy 
life of a country gentleman, broken only by 
the Revolution of July, 1830, when he again 
assumed command of the National Guards, es- 
tablished order in Paris, and was instrumental 
in placing Louis Philippe on the throne of 
France. This public service ended, he again 
returned to his country home, where, on May 
20, 1834, he passed to the great beyond. 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Adams, John 19 

Adams, John Quincy ... 19, 24, 48 

Agnew, General James 34 

Albany, N. Y 16 

Alien, William, Chief Justice ... 28 

Alliance Frigate 14. 39 

American Classical and Military In- 
stitute 29 

Armat, Thomas 23 

Baltimore, Md 16 

Barren Hill 13, 29, 30, 32 

Barringer, George A 9 

Beauregard, General P. G. T. . . 29 

Bolivar, Fernando 46, 47 

Bolivar, Simon 4^ 

Boston, Mass 16 

Brandywine, Battle of 13 

Brandywine, Frigate 48 

Bi-eakfast at Cliveden 27 

Bunker Hill monument 18 

Bush Hill 38 

Cadmus Packet . IS 

Charleston, S. C 16 

Chestnut Hill 29 

Chew, Miss Anne 26, 27 

Chew, Jr., Benjamin 26 

Cincinnati, Ohio 16 

Clay, Henry 18 

Clinton, General 30, 31 

Cliveden 25 

Cloquet, Jules 40 

Congress receives Lafayette . . .16 

Constant, Benjamin C 29 

De Kalb, Baron 13 

Dock Creek 38 

Donaldson, Miss Molly 41 

Duke of Gloucester 12 

Du Pont, Admiral 29 

Elm, Treaty 39 



PAGE 

English sparrows 32 

Franklin 13,41 

Franklin's cane 37 

Freemasons 23, 25, 35 

George III 42 

Germantown Academy 42 

Germantown Bank 35, 36 

Germantown Cavalry .... 23, 28 
Germantown, Lafayette reaches . . 22 

Gowen, James 29 

Green Tree Tavern 25 

Gum, Sweet 38 

Haines, Reuben 33, 35. 41 

Heat in Philadelphia 21 

Heilig, Captain 23 

Indian scouts 32 

Jefferson, Thomas 19. 4^ 

Johnson, Miss Anne 27 

Johnson, Miss Sally W 28 

Johnson, Walter R 43> 46 

Lafayette chair 41 

Lafayette's death 49 

Lafayette, George Washington . . 20 

Lafayette sails 48 

Lafayette wrecked on Mississippi . I J 

La Grange 1 1. 49 

Landing in New York 15 

Levasseur, Auguste . 9, 20, 21, 26, 48 

Logan, A. L 28 

Loudoun 23 

Lutheran Theological Seminary . . 29 

McPherson Blues 23 

Madison, James '9. 4^ 

Mahogany 39 

Main Street, Germantown .... 24 

Martins 32 

Matson's Ford 31 

Meade, General George G 29 

Mobile 16 



PACK 

MoDmouth 13 

Monroe Doctrine . „/ II 

Monroe, James 19, 25, 48 

Monticello 48 

Morris, Mrs 27 

Morris, Robert 40 

Mt. Airy College 28 

Mt. Vernon 14 

Murler, Joseph 22, 24 

Nashville 16 

Neglee's Hill 23 

New Orleans 16 

New York 16 

Oak 38 

Oak Hill . . 24 

Oldest house in Germantown ... 33 

Penn, Richard 37 

Penn Society 36 

Philadelphia, Lafayette in .... 16 
Philadelphia, Lafayette reaches . . 20 

Pierce, Charles 35 

Pittsburgh, Pa 16 

Polly, Tea ship 42 

Portland, Me 16 

Portsmouth, N. H 16 

Raleigh, N. C 16 



PAGE 

Red Jacket 19 

Rosales, Manuel Landeata .... 9 

Roumfort, August L 29 

Rush, Richard 48 

St. Louis, Mo 16 

Savannah, Ga; 16 

Schouler, James 9 

Site and Relic Society 28 

Syracuse, N. Y. . . 16 

Toll-gates 24 

Tower, Charlemagne 9 

Treaty Elm 39 

Upsala 26 

Valley Forge 18 

Virginia campaign 14 

Walnut, Black 37 

Washington, D. C 16 

Washington, George 34 

Washington's hair 37 

Watson, John F 3Si 4° 

Webster, Daniel 18 

Wister, Charles J 34, 41 

Wister, Miss Sally 34 

Wyck 33i 41 

Yanes, Hon. F. J 9 

Yorktown 14 



01 



'J 9Z8 



,© 



